A 19 March 2018 Mediapart investigation, based on confidential documents analyzed with the EIC consortium, alleged that Kering avoided about €2.5 billion in taxes since 2002, largely affecting Italy, with sums also attributed to France and Britain. Kering disputed claims of tax advantage, saying its Swiss operations had real activity and paid taxes lawfully.
Confidential documents obtained by Mediapart and analysed together with its media partners in the journalistic consortium European Investigative Collaborations (EIC) suggest that Gucci’s French owner, Kering, has since 2002 evaded a total of about 2.5 billion euros in tax payments on earnings, mostly to the detriment of the Italian public purse but also that in France and in Britain.
In a 2026 Vogue Business interview about Kering’s 10-year impact report, sustainability chief Marie-Claire Daveu described emissions cuts, supply-chain traceability and industry initiatives, while acknowledging more work remains. Kering’s new priorities include fair production, investment in craftsmanship and materials innovation; the company also set further targets, including net zero emissions by 2050.
It’s been a big year for Kering. In mid-April, new CEO Luca de Meo presented his turnaround strategy for the beleaguered luxury group, channeling his automotive experience into ‘ReconKering’ — a strategy designed to double operating margins, increase efficiency, and streamline work across key brands. The goal is to position Kering as “the indisputable challenger in luxury”, he told reporters at the time.
The sustainability team at Kering is no stranger to that role. Today, Kering published its latest impact report, looking back on a decade of action. In that time, under the leadership of chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer Marie-Claire Daveu, it has consistently pushed the luxury industry to level-up its sustainability ambitions. The luxury group was an early proponent of greening fashion shows, implementing science-based targets, scaling regenerative agriculture, acting on water scarcity, and investing in innovation.
Asked what she is most proud of, Daveu points to the Charter on the Working Relations With Fashion Models and their Wellbeing, which Kering implemented alongside LVMH in 2017, to protect underage models from mistreatment; the industry-leading ban on fur applied to all Kering brands in 2021; and the creation of The Fashion Pact, which brings together more than 200 names spanning luxury to fast fashion with the shared goal of accelerating sustainability.
“We try to lead by example, and show what is possible through luxury,” says Daveu. “We are very proud of what the teams have been able to implement, but it’s very important to be transparent about our challenges, because we still have a lot of work to do.”
Today, on the eve of World Environment Day, Kering published its 10-year impact report, closing out its previous sustainability strategy — ‘Crafting Tomorrow’s Luxury’ — and making way for ‘ReconKering’. Vogue Business got an exclusive first look.
Sustainability as resilience
In the decade since Kering wrote its 2016 to 2025 strategy, the sustainability landscape — and the world around it — has changed dramatically, says Daveu. “When we started, climate change was based on scientific reports, warning that
sustainability function at its Capital Markets Day in April. First, fair production and to produce only what is sold, maximizing resource efficiency, leveraging precision manufacturing, and creating a more disciplined collection architecture. This echoes broader industry shifts — just see Shein’s recent purchase of Everlane, which also put forward the case for on-demand manufacturing and better forecasting to make sustainability as efficient (and profitable) as possible.
The second priority is investing in people, craftsmanship, and the value chain. Again, this reflects broader industry challenges. Namely, the ongoing investigation into worker exploitation in Italian luxury supply chains and the associated potential for reputational harm that has haunted luxury fashion brands for the past two years. According to its latest report, 87% of Kering’s suppliers are based in Europe — 78% of which are in Italy. This builds on existing work: in 2016, Kering established a centralized Supply Chain Security and Audit Management function, which has since facilitated 33,724 audits. And in 2024, the luxury group formalized its Craftsmanship Preservation Policy, to protect the specialisms, methods and people that make its products possible. As part of this, Brioni’s Scuola di Alta Sartoria Nazareno Fonticoli trains 16 apprentices each year, while the Pomellato Virtuosi Academy upskills 140 students per year, with a 90% average employment rate.
The third and final priority is more future-facing: diversifying the Kering’s materials portfolio, accelerating innovation, and expanding circular services from repair to resale. In line with this, Bottega Veneta recently launched a mycelium-based alternative to animal leather. Earlier efforts include Gucci’s Circular Hub, established in 2022, which has seen the brand pilot several next-gen materials; and the ongoing collaboration between Kering Eyewear and ReAce recycled acetate. The group’s investments are wide-ranging, notes Daveu, spanning from waterless and water-saving dyeing to 3D manufacturing, microfiber leakage reduction technologies, PFAS-free finishings, and carbon capture.
On this front, Daveu
MILAN (AFP) — Italian prosecutors on Thursday named Gucci, Prada, Versace and Yves Saint Laurent as among 13 luxury brands suspected of using subcontractors who exploited migrant workers in Italy, as part of a growing investigation into sweatshop conditions.
In a response concerning the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, Kering said it does not tolerate forced labor or labor exploitation in its supply chains and would terminate a supplier relationship if it becomes aware of forced labor. The company also cited human-rights commitments and its use of traceable, sustainably grown cotton.
If Kering becomes aware of any case of forced labour in its supply chain, the Group will terminate its relationship with the supplier in question.
On March 4, 2022, Kering said it would temporarily suspend business in Russia amid the war in Ukraine and growing operational concerns. The group had two shops and 180 employees in the country; a report said Kering would continue supporting its employees.
PARIS, France – The world’s leading luxury brands said on Friday, March 4, that they planned to temporarily close stores and pause business operations in Russia.
Hermes, Richemont, LVMH, Kering, and Chanel are among the luxury brands suspending Russia operations
On October 14, 2025, the European Commission said Kering-owned Gucci had prevented independent retailers from setting their own prices for designer goods, reducing distributors’ freedom. The EU fined Gucci, along with LVMH’s Loewe and Richemont’s Chloé, more than €157 million in total; Gucci’s reported fine was $138.5 million.
The European Commission said Tuesday that the brands prevented independent third-party retailers they work with from setting their own prices for their designer products like clothes, leather goods, shoes and accessories.
In a June 2021 interview, Kering’s chief diversity, inclusion and talent officer Kalpana Bagamane described programs including employee listening sessions, a mentorship partnership with Black In Corporate and new survey questions on fairness and respect. She said the company’s houses lead their own efforts; the article also noted criticism of some brands’ lack of diversity in campaigns and on catwalks.
In a Vogue Business exclusive, Kalpana Bagamane, who joined Kering in 2019 as its first chief diversity, inclusion and talent officer, explains how the luxury group is creating a diverse, equitable and inclusive workplace.
A Vogue report published June 4, 2026, said Kering had set an additional target the previous April to become net water positive by 2050. It described group-level sourcing platforms as key to shifting toward more traceable cotton, wool and cashmere. The supplied evidence does not specify how progress will be measured.
Last April, Kering set an additional target to become net water positive by 2050, another industry first.
On March 5, 2022, Rappler reported that Kering had pledged financial support to help Ukrainian refugees. The report also said L’Oréal and LVMH had made pledges; it did not give Kering’s contribution amount or further details.
L’Oreal, LVMH, and Kering have all pledged financial support to help Ukrainian refugees and Richemont said on Friday it was initiating a “significant donation” to Medecins Sans Frontieres. – Rappler.com